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Care guide

Pigmentation & Melasma

How do I get rid of dark spots and melasma?

Pigmentation is treated on three pillars: daily sunscreen (the most important — without it any treatment fails), brightening ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, azelaic and kojic acid, and patience since results take 8–12 weeks. Deep melasma and stubborn spots should be treated under a dermatologist’s supervision. Avoid rubbing the skin or using harsh products, as they worsen pigmentation.

Dark spots, melasma and post-acne marks are among the top concerns for people in Mediterranean regions, where the sun is strong most of the year. Treating pigmentation is a journey of patience — and its most important step isn’t the brightener, but sunscreen.

📊 Quick facts

Azelaic 20%showed efficacy equivalent to hydroquinone 4% (the gold standard) for melasma
Niacinamidereduces melanin transfer to surface cells and evens skin tone
Sunscreenthe most important step — without it, any pigmentation treatment loses its effect to UV

🔍 Common causes

🔬 How dark spots form — interactive

Ultraviolet rays stimulate pigment cells to produce melanin, which rises to the surface as a dark spot. Switch between the two states to see why prevention matters more than any brightener.

UV Skin Dermis 🛡 Sunscreen layer Pigment cell
!

🧪 Evidence-backed active ingredients

These ingredients are backed by scientific evidence for this concern. What’s best for your skin is decided by the pharmacist or doctor — and some need gradual introduction. The examples shown under each ingredient are for illustration only and not a sales offer; the doctor or pharmacist decides what’s best for your skin.

SunscreenThe undisputed #1

Without it no brightening treatment succeeds. SPF 50, broad-spectrum, daily and reapplied every two hours in the sun. For melasma, a mineral/tinted sunscreen that also blocks visible light is preferred.

Vitamin CAntioxidant

Inhibits melanin production, evens tone and boosts sun protection. Used in the morning under sunscreen.

NiacinamideEvens tone

Reduces melanin transfer to the skin’s surface, and is gentle and suitable for long-term daily use.

Azelaic acidGentle & effective

Fades spots and reduces inflammation — a relatively suitable option during pregnancy (with a doctor’s advice).

Alpha-arbutinTopical brightener

A gentler derivative that gradually reduces melanin formation, suitable for sensitive skin.

Retinol / exfoliating acidsSpeed renewal

Help exfoliate the pigmented layers and improve results; introduced gradually and at night.

🧴 A suggested starter routine

1
Gentle cleanserOne that doesn’t cause irritation that worsens pigmentation.🌿 Examples: CeraVe Foaming Cleanser
2
Vitamin C serumIn the morning — evens tone and boosts sunscreen protection.🌿 Examples: Dr. Althea Vitamin C Boosting Serum (20%)
3
Nightly topical brightenerNiacinamide/azelaic/alpha-arbutin or retinol as advised.🌿 Examples: Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum · The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA
4
MoisturizerMaintains the barrier and reduces irritation.🌿 Examples: CeraVe Moisturising Cream
5
Sunscreen SPF 50In the morning, reapplied every two hours — the step that determines everything’s success.🌿 Examples: Heartleaf Sun Cream SPF50+

💡 Daily tips

⚠️ When to see a dermatologist

  • A new spot with an irregular shape or color, or one growing/changing quickly.
  • A spot that bleeds, flakes or won’t heal.
  • Severe melasma that doesn’t respond to topical treatments.
  • Sudden, widespread pigmentation with no clear cause.
  • Any mole changing in size, color or edges — needs an immediate check.

FAQ

Usually due to lack of sun protection. Without daily, reapplied sunscreen, UV keeps stimulating melanin and cancels out the brightener’s effect.
Post-acne marks may take weeks to months, while melasma is harder and slower and often needs medical follow-up.
It depends on the type and depth of pigmentation. Melasma in particular can worsen with some lasers, so a specialist decides.
Some ingredients are avoided during pregnancy. Azelaic acid, niacinamide and sunscreen are usually safer — but check with your doctor first.
Medical disclaimer: This content is general educational information only — not a diagnosis or a substitute for consulting a doctor or pharmacist. Do not start any prescription medication (such as antibiotics or oral retinoids) without medical supervision.
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📚 Scientific sources

The information in this guide is based on trusted medical sources:

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