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Science guide

Skincare ingredient guide

Understand what each ingredient does for your skin, which ingredients don’t mix, and which products contain them — with trusted information and scientific sources.

Some ingredients shouldn’t be used together at the same time. Here you’ll find what conflicts with what and how to avoid it, per dermatologist guidance. Red = best not to combine · Yellow = be careful if your skin is sensitive. Tap any card for details.

Retinol + benzoyl peroxide Don’t combine

Benzoyl peroxide can oxidize some forms of retinol and weaken it. Don’t combine them at the same time — one in the AM and the other in the PM (or on alternating days).

✔ Separate AM/PM📚 Product leaflet + AAD
Vitamin C + benzoyl peroxide Don’t combine

Benzoyl peroxide oxidizes vitamin C and weakens it. Don’t use them together at the same time — separate AM/PM.

✔ Separate AM/PM📚 Product leaflet
Benzoyl peroxide + alpha acid (AHA) Don’t combine

Benzoyl peroxide with an exfoliating acid (AHA) can cause dryness, over-flaking and irritation. Don’t combine them — alternate on different days.

✔ Alternate (different days)📚 AAD 2024
Benzoyl peroxide + beta acid (BHA / salicylic) Don’t combine

Benzoyl peroxide with an exfoliating acid (BHA) can cause dryness and excess irritation. Don’t combine them — alternate on different days.

✔ Alternate (different days)📚 AAD 2024
Alpha acid (AHA) + beta acid (BHA / salicylic) Don’t combine

Two exfoliating acids together (AHA and BHA) can over-exfoliate and weaken the skin barrier. Use only one per session.

✔ Choose one📚 AAD 2024
Retinol + alpha acid (AHA) Caution

Gentle note: the idea that acids “deactivate” retinol is a myth with no research behind it. The only caveat is that using them together may increase irritation for sensitive skin. If your skin is sensitive, give each its own night; otherwise there’s no problem.

✔ Separate AM/PM📚 Dermatologist consensus
Retinol + beta acid (BHA / salicylic) Caution

Gentle note: there’s no real conflict between retinol and BHA, but combining them may increase irritation for sensitive skin. If you start to feel dryness, separate them onto different nights.

✔ Separate AM/PM📚 Dermatologist consensus
Retinol + vitamin C Caution

Gentle note: they can be used safely in the same routine, and may even complement each other. The most common order for comfort: vitamin C in the AM (with sunscreen) and retinol in the PM — that’s a choice, not a conflict.

✔ Separate AM/PM📚 Dermatologist consensus
Vitamin C + alpha acid (AHA) Caution

Vitamin C with an exfoliating acid (AHA) — both are acidic and may cause stinging and irritation for sensitive skin. Easiest: vitamin C in the AM and the acid in the PM.

✔ Separate AM/PM📚 Dermatologist consensus
Vitamin C + beta acid (BHA / salicylic) Caution

Vitamin C with an exfoliating acid (BHA) may irritate sensitive skin. Easiest: vitamin C in the AM and the acid in the PM.

✔ Separate AM/PM📚 Dermatologist consensus
Azelaic acid + retinol Caution

Gentle note: azelaic and retinol are an excellent duo for spots and acne, but combining them on the same night may increase dryness and irritation — especially in the first 4–8 weeks of retinol. Easiest: azelaic in the AM and retinol in the PM.

✔ Separate AM/PM📚 Dermatologist consensus + Ro Dermatology
Azelaic acid + benzoyl peroxide Caution

Azelaic with benzoyl peroxide may cause dryness and excess irritation when combined at the same time. Separate them AM/PM for comfort.

✔ Separate AM/PM📚 Product leaflet

Each ingredient and what it does for your skin, the right concentration, and key notes — with a scientific source for every point. Filter by goal or see the products that contain it.

Retinol / Retinoid

20 products
Treatment
UseAcne, wrinkles, cell renewal
Concentration0.025–1% (OTC)
NotesPM only, introduce gradually. Off-limits in pregnancy/breastfeeding. Increases sun sensitivity.
📄 Liposomes & Nanocarriers Review 2024 (NCBI)

Azelaic acid

5 products
Treatment
UseAcne, rosacea, post-inflammatory pigmentation
Concentration10% OTC / 15–20% prescription
NotesSafe in pregnancy. Gentle on sensitive skin. 20% ≈ 4% hydroquinone for melasma.
📄 Azelaic Acid Systematic Review (Derm Advisor 2024)

Benzoyl peroxide

3 products
Treatment
UseInflammatory acne (antibacterial)
Concentration2.5–10%
Notes2.5–5% is effective with the least irritation. Bleaches fabric. Don’t combine with retinol/vitamin C.
📄 Global Burden of Disease / AAD

Salicylic acid (BHA)

15 products
Exfoliant
UsePores, blackheads, oily skin
Concentration0.5–2%
NotesPenetrates the oil inside pores. Ideal for oily skin.
📄 Pharmacy Times — Acne Management

Alpha acids (AHA)

11 products
Exfoliant
UseSurface exfoliation, pigmentation, texture
ConcentrationGlycolic 5–10%
NotesExfoliates the surface. Increases sun sensitivity — sunscreen is essential.
📄 AAD — Chemical Peels & AHA guidance

Tranexamic acid

4 products
Brightening
UseMelasma and stubborn pigmentation
Concentration2–5% topical
NotesEffective for melasma, especially with niacinamide. A good option for darker skin.
📄 Niacinamide/TXA Melasma RCT (NCBI)

Kojic acid

4 products
Brightening
UseFading spots and melasma
Concentration1–4%
NotesInhibits tyrosinase. Stronger with arbutin and niacinamide. Oxidizes easily (yellows). Best at pH 4–5.
📄 JOCD 2024 RCT — 5% arbutin + 2% kojic for melasma

Alpha-arbutin

2 products
Brightening
UseFading spots, evening tone
Concentration1–2%
NotesA gentler derivative of hydroquinone. Inhibits tyrosinase.
📄 Arbutin+Kojic Melasma RCT 2024 (NCBI)

Licorice extract

0 products
Brightening
UseBrightening, calming redness, anti-inflammatory
Concentration
NotesGlabridin inhibits tyrosinase; licochalcone calms inflammation. Gentle and suited to sensitive, rosacea-prone skin.
📄 NCBI 2025 — evaluation of licorice extract in cosmetics
Present in several products as a supporting ingredient

Hyaluronic acid

102 products
Hydration
UseHydration, radiance, plumping
Concentration0.1–2%
NotesDraws water into the skin. Apply to damp skin then seal with a moisturizer.
📄 β-NAG2 / HA antiwrinkle study (NCBI)

Collagen

18 products
Hydration/look
UseHydration and a surface-plumped look
Concentration
NotesTopically it hydrates and plumps temporarily (the molecule is too large to penetrate deeply).
📄 Skin Health & Disease Cosmeceuticals Review 2024

Panthenol (provitamin B5)

15 products
Hydration/soothing
UseHydration, soothing, healing
Concentration1–5%
NotesA gentle soother and repairer. Excellent after procedures or for irritated skin.
📄 Skin Health & Disease Cosmeceuticals Review 2024

Ceramides

14 products
Barrier repair
UseBarrier repair, dryness, eczema
Concentration
NotesEssential for dry/sensitive skin and a weak barrier. Works in synergy with cholesterol and fatty acids.
📄 Emollient Barrier / Atopic Dermatitis (NCBI)

Squalane

10 products
Hydration/look
UseEmollient moisturizer, barrier, non-comedogenic
ConcentrationUp to 100%
NotesA light emollient similar to the skin’s own oils, non-comedogenic. Excellent for dry, sensitive and even oily skin.
📄 Cosmoderma 2023 — squalane serum evaluation

Urea

6 products
Hydration
UseHydration (low %) and exfoliation (high %)
Concentration5–10% hydrating / 20–40% exfoliating
NotesA natural component of the skin barrier (NMF). 5–10% hydrates, 20–40% exfoliates and softens thick skin. Excellent for severe dryness, eczema and cracked feet.
📄 Dermatology and Therapy 2021 (PubMed) — comprehensive review

Centella / Cica

41 products
Soothing
UseSoothing, redness, repair, sensitive skin
Concentration
NotesA plant anti-inflammatory. Excellent for rosacea, redness and reactive skin.
📄 Skin Health & Disease Cosmeceuticals Review 2024

Beta-glucan

1 product
Soothing
UseDeep hydration, soothing, repair
Concentration
NotesHydrates, soothes and supports healing; a molecule that locks in water sometimes deeper than hyaluronic acid. Gentle for reactive skin.
📄 Skin Health & Disease 2024 — ingredient review

Allantoin

0 products
Soothing
UseSoothing, healing, gentle hydration
Concentration0.1–2%
NotesSoothes and speeds skin healing, safe even for very sensitive skin. Common in soothing and repair products.
📄 Skin Health & Disease 2024 — cosmetic ingredient review
Present in several products as a supporting ingredient

Vitamin C

22 products
Antioxidant
UseAntioxidant, pigmentation, glow
ConcentrationL-AA 10–20%
NotesAM under sunscreen. Store away from light/air.
📄 Niacinamide/Vit C Melasma RCT (NCBI)

Green tea (EGCG)

2 products
Antioxidant
UseAntioxidant, soothing, oil
Concentration
NotesAnti-inflammatory and antioxidant. Helpful for oily, irritated skin.
📄 The Ordinary EGCG / antioxidant literature

Vitamin E

1 product
Antioxidant
UseAntioxidant, hydration, protection
Concentration
NotesSynergizes with vitamin C. Protects lipids from oxidation.
📄 Skin Health & Disease Cosmeceuticals Review 2024

Ferulic acid

1 product
Antioxidant
UseAntioxidant, stabilizes vitamin C/E, sun protection
Concentration0.5–1%
NotesDoubles the stability and effect of vitamins C and E and protects from UV damage. Oxidizes easily, so the formula matters.
📄 Skin Health & Disease 2024 — ingredient review

PDRN (polynucleotide)

16 products
Renewal
UseRenewal, healing, radiance
Concentration
NotesStimulates tissue repair. Common in modern K-beauty products.
📄 PDRN Ingredient Review

Bakuchiol

5 products
Anti-aging
UsePlant retinol alternative — wrinkles, pigmentation, acne
Concentration0.5–2%
NotesStimulates collagen I/III and a strong antioxidant, with results close to retinol and better tolerance for sensitive skin. Relatively safe in pregnancy (consultation preferred).
📄 JDD Systematic Review 2024 — systematic review of clinical trials

Adenosine

2 products
Anti-aging
UseWrinkles, collagen stimulation, soothing
Concentration0.04–0.1% (approved)
NotesAn approved anti-wrinkle ingredient; stimulates fibroblasts and collagen production. Safe for all skin types and non-irritating.
📄 Medical News Today — 2018/2020 research review

Peptides

1 product
Anti-aging
UseCollagen stimulation, lines, elasticity
Concentration
NotesSignals that stimulate collagen. Gentle and combine with most ingredients.
📄 Skin Health & Disease Cosmeceuticals Review 2024

Niacinamide (B3)

28 products
Multi
UsePores, redness, barrier, pigmentation
Concentration2–10%
NotesTolerated by almost everyone. Doesn’t conflict with vitamin C (a myth).
📄 Niacinamide/TXA Melasma RCT (NCBI)

Caffeine

4 products
Eye care
UsePuffiness and the look of dark circles
Concentration
NotesTemporarily constricts vessels to reduce puffiness. Common in eye creams.
📄 Caffeine eye/skin literature (Medical News Today)

Zinc

5 products
Oil control
UseOil control, soothing, protection
Concentration
NotesZinc PCA controls oil; zinc oxide is a physical sunscreen for sensitive skin.
📄 Zinc in acne (NCBI)

Sunscreen

40 products
Protection
UseThe most important prevention — protection and preventing pigmentation
ConcentrationSPF 30 (~97%) / 50 (~98%)
NotesReapply every two hours when exposed. The foundational step in any routine.
📄 AAD — Sunscreen FAQs
Note: this is general guidance to help you understand your skin, and is not a substitute for a doctor or pharmacist or the product leaflet. Concentrations are indicative and vary by product and case. A doctor or pharmacist decides what’s best for your situation.
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